Diagnosing Outdoor Plant Problems

When you have a plant that is not doing well, you want to help it recover. Sometimes it is obvious what is causing the problem, but often it is not. Here is a checklist of things to go through to diagnose your plant's problem.

Just Transplanted or Established?

If your plant has been recently transplanted, it may be suffering from transplant shock or inadequate water. Transplant shock results from being moved and having the roots severed when the plant is dug up from where it was growing.

Inadequate water can cause the plant to wilt or have brown on the leaf edges. Plants should be watered the whole first year after they are transplanted. It takes that long for the roots on the plants to fully infiltrate the soil outside of the planting hole. Before a plant is established, it has to rely on the moisture in the soil inside the planting hole. After the plant is established, it can reach more soil and hence more water.

Anything Happen to the Plant Recently?

Has the plant or the area around the plant been sprayed or fertilized recently? What about construction or moving soil around in the area? Plants that have been sprayed may be reacting to the spray. If you spray plants with horticulture oil, for example, when the weather is hot, the oil will burn the plant. If herbicides were used nearby recently, could the spray have drifted onto the plant and injured it? Plants that are fine then have brown dry leaves or leaf margins within a few days after being fertilized are suffering burn from too much fertilizer.

Construction can put additional soil on tree roots and cut off their oxygen. Spilled or deliberately placed concrete can restrict the plant's roots. Be especially careful doing construction around existing plants.

Any Unusual Weather Recently?

Extreme heat or cold can cause plant problems, as can prolonged rain. Two or more weather conditions can work together to doom plants. For example, trees growing in a place with an extreme drought cannot cool themselves when the weather becomes extremely hot. Trees can die from an extreme weather event three to five years after it happens due to the stress such an event causes.

Cold weather can also cause problems. If the weather has been mild and plants have not gone dormant, a spell of extreme cold can kill the plants. Last year in my area we had no winter except for one spell of about 72 hours. It was extremely cold for my area those few hours and many plants died because they were all leafed out and not ready for the cold.

Flowering plants can drop their blossoms if it freezes after they bloom. For fruit trees like peaches or plums, that means no fruit that year.

Animal, Mineral, or Vegetable?

If none of these causes reveal the culprit causing your plant's problems, it is time to take a close look at the plant. What damage exactly do you see? Are the edges of the leaves brown, are there holes in the leaves or stem? If they have holes, are they chewed, round, or some other shape?

If you see pests, where exactly are they on the plant? Some pests love new growth, others go for the crown of the plant, and some eat the fruit or seeds. The first symptoms of some diseases are strange growth at the tips of branches.

Look at the area around the plant and look at any other plants closely related to the species of the problem plant. If lots of the plants around the problem plant also have the same problems, you are probably looking at a nonliving problem. If only the plants that are closely related to that plant are having problems, you are probably looking at a living cause for the symptoms.

If the growth on the top of the plant is wilted or stunted, this generally points to a problem with the roots. When plants cannot absorb water or nutrients naturally, the fastest growing parts are the first parts affected.

Spread or Static?

Is the problem spreading on the plant? Is it spreading from one plant to another adjacent plant? If the problem on the plant does not seem to be growing, your plant was damaged by a nonliving cause. If it is spreading, you are probably looking at an environmental cause.

Living Problems

If you think the problem is living, take a magnifying glass and carefully go over the affected part of the plant. While some pests are microscopic, you will probably be able to see something where the plant is damaged. Take note of the color of the pest, any patterns on it, the mouthparts (if you can see them), and whether there is more than one kind of pest present.

Look at the damage the pest is causing. Chewing and rasping pests eat the foliage or tear holes in it. Sucking and piercing insects suck the juice out of plants and cause white spots where the chlorophyll is missing. They also inject the area with toxins, so tissue death may occur around the feeding area.

Note that plants that are hosts for caterpillars, such as butterfly weed, will have some damage such as chewed leaves and missing leaves. You can't have butterflies without tolerating caterpillars on your host plants.

Fungal diseases can cause round leaf spots, stem rots with a dry/papery texture, concentric rings, discoloration, or wilt. Bacterial damage can cause galls (swollen areas in the twig or leaf), wet rots, irregularly shaped leaf spots, wilting, yellowing, or death. Viral diseases can inhibit chlorophyll formation, causing degrees of yellowing or mottling, stunting, distortion, or dieback of part of the plant.

Nematodes are microscopic roundworms that cause damage that mimic diseases. Root nematodes damage roots so they cannot carry water to the rest of the plant. Other nematodes damage other parts of the plant.

Nonliving Problems

Mechanical damage to a plant is usually apparent when the plant is examined closely. Broken twigs, wounds caused by weed trimmers or mowers, and crushed foliage are all types of mechanical damage you might see.

Physical factors are usually caused by extreme heat or cold. Moving a plant like a lemon tree from a low light area to a high light area, or vice versa, can cause the plant to drop foliage and blooms. Change light intensity gradually.

Oddly enough, both drought and excess moisture have the same symptoms. Leaves turn yellow, may drop off the plant, and the plant may wilt. Root rot is usually caused by too much moisture. Since the roots are not able to take up water, the rest of the plant acts like there is a drought.

Fertilizer, pesticides, and herbicides can cause leaf burn, distortion, chlorosis, or bleaching. Herbicide and pesticide drift from another yard can cause a lot of damage, so check the wind direction and expect a cone shaped damage area from the point of application.

Nutrient deficiencies or excesses can cause yellowing, the death of foliage, browning of leaves, and in extreme cases, death of the plant. For example, beets cannot tolerate much boron in the soil, or they won't grow right.

Next Steps

Gather the information you have gotten from examining your plants. Consult an expert such as your Extension agent or our nursery staff. Garden Plants Nursery staff are gardeners and can advise you on what to do next. Give us a call at 931.692.7325 for questions and orders.

Early Elberta Peach Tree

Early Elberta Peach Tree

Why the Early Elberta Peach Tree is a Must-Have for Your Garden The Early Elberta Peach tree is a relatively new plant famous for its sweet peach fruit and beautiful light pink flowers. The peaches are usually harvested in mid-season. The tree is resistant to leaf curl, a fungal disease, and bacterial leaf spot caused by pathogens and bacteria. This tree needs chill hours ranging from 800 to 900. Even though these trees grow up to 25 feet, they are usually pruned to 15 feet. Growing and Caring for Early Elberta Peach Trees: Tips for Success The tree is believed to have originated in the United States. It requires full sun and regular watering. It grows moderately, and the flowers bloom in late Spring to avoid issues like frost. The Early Elberta Peach Tree is not only edible but bird-friendly as well. It has excellent tolerance during cold weather and is drought-resistant. The U.S.D.A. Plant Hardiness Zone puts the Red Haven Peach Tree in Zones 5 to 9. How to Enjoy Fresh, Juicy Peaches from Your Early Elberta Peach Tree A good tree must be supplied with a balanced fertilizer to grow. Acidic, sandy, and loamy soil is the soil in which it grows best. The pH level of the soil should be between 4.5 and 7.5. It must be watered weekly during the first year. The tree must be smooth but consistently moist. The Early Elberta Peach Tree can start being thinned after the fruit has grown 1 inch, and the fruit has also begun to fall from the tree. The fruit is ready when it turns yellow, usually at the start of July. It can take up to 2 to 4 years for it to start producing fruit. With proper care, these trees can live 40 years or more. Botanical Latin Name: Prunes persica Sun Exposure: Full Sun Hardiness Zones: 5 to 9 Mature Height: 15 to 30 feet Spread: 15 to 30 feet Spacing: far apart, needs room to grow Growth Rate: average rate Flowering Time: mid-spring How Long It Flowers: mid-spring until frost Flower Color: pink flowers, pink-orange fruit Soil Requirements: sandy loam to clay, pH range 5-7 Pruning: high maintenance. It needs to be pruned, thinned, sheared, and rejuvenated. The flowers on this tree are small and pink. The leaves on the tree are green and medium in size. The flowers are fragrant and give off a pleasant aroma. There are also deciduous. This tree produces peaches, which people commonly eat. The peaches range in color from yellow to red. For the peaches to grow, the tree must be well maintained. The old branches need to be removed so that new ones can grow. This tree also requires a lot of sunlight and water. This tree grows well in humid conditions.

Fruiting Plum Tree

Fruiting Plum Tree

How to Grow a Thriving Fruiting Plum Tree in Your Garden Fruiting Plum Trees, scientifically known as Prunus Domestica, are beloved and iconic fruit trees with a reputation for producing delicious, sweet, and succulent plums. Named after Santa Rosa, California, which was first developed in the late 19th century, this plum variety has become a staple in orchards and home gardens worldwide. Top Benefits of Planting a Fruiting Plum Tree in Your Yard The tree is characterized by its beautiful appearance and vibrant growth. When fully mature, it usually reaches 15 to 20 feet, with a spreading canopy that provides ample shade during hot summers. Its dark green deciduous leaves provide a lovely backdrop for the stunning pink and white blossoms that appear in early spring, creating a breathtaking display. Caring for Your Fruiting Plum Tree: Essential Tips for Success One of the tree's most exceptional features is its fruit. The plums are large and round, with beautiful reddish-purple skin and deep crimson flesh. They are renowned for their sweet and slightly tart flavor. In addition to their appeal, Fruiting Plum Trees are an excellent choice for home gardeners and orchard enthusiasts due to their relatively low maintenance requirements and disease resistance. They thrive in well-drained soil and require full sun to produce an abundant crop. In summary, Fruiting Plum Tree is a delightful and versatile fruit tree that brings beauty and flavor to gardens and orchards alike. Its exquisite appearance, delicious fruit, and adaptability make it a cherished addition to any garden.

Butterfly Milkweed

Butterfly Milkweed

The Best Growing Tips for Butterfly Milkweed in Your Garden The Butterfly Milkweed plant is certainly one of the most beautiful wildflowers in North America. Its beauty comes not only from its appearance but also from its fragrance. The plant that most people think of is A. Syriaca or the common plant. The Butterfly Milkweed blooms out in a star-spangled banner-type display. At the top of the stem is a myriad of tiny flowers colored in a watercolor-like light purple. They also bloom in most other colors of the spectrum. The plant is blooming in yellow, orange, green, and pink. To propagate themselves, these plants develop a seed pod that dries and then splits open to spread hundreds of seeds in the fall. How Butterfly Milkweed Attracts Pollinators and Benefits Your Garden Depending on the type of plant, it can grow from 2 to 5 feet in height. It grows in zones 3 to 9. This plant attracts the usual pollinating insects, such as bees, hummingbirds, and especially Monarch butterflies. Monarch butterflies love this plant because it is their main food source and also supplies a secure place for the female to spread her eggs, mostly on the underside of the leaves. These plants are fast spreading, giving them plenty of room in your garden. They like from 6 to 8 hours of sunshine. A good place in the garden is where they are protected from the wind so that you can control the spread of the seeds. This helps prevent the plant from taking over your garden. This also provides a haven for the Monarchs. Caring for Butterfly Milkweed A Complete Guide to Healthy Plants Most Butterfly Milkweed plants do well in just about any soil. The exception is the Swamp weed, which requires moist and humus soil. Plant them in a well-cultivated flowerbed that has been worked to a fine mix. Add the recommended amount of fertilizer for an average soil mix. There is no genuine special care for the soil. Sow the seeds and tamp the soil. Water the flower bed and wait.

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